The south of France boasts a hidden gem, a natural wonder that captivates locals and visitors alike. But is it a well-kept secret or an undiscovered paradise?
When a Parisian bistro owner, Nordine Nid Hsain, was asked about his move from the bustling capital to the Mediterranean port of Sète, he revealed a captivating reason. It wasn't the town itself that lured him, but the enchanting Thau lagoon, a natural paradise adjacent to the town. Imagine cycling along the lagoon's edge, a daily adventure filled with new discoveries.
And discover he did! From pristine beaches to wetland landscapes, the lagoon offers a feast for the senses. Picture yourself savoring fresh oysters by the water, then pedaling through vineyards, culminating in a wine tasting in the vigneron's cellar. It's a foodie's dream come true!
The writer's curiosity piqued, they embarked on a journey to Sète, a mere three and a half hours away by train. Upon arrival, they discovered Thau, officially an étang (lake), is actually a sprawling lagoon, separated from the Mediterranean by the Lido, a slender 9-mile beach.
Mèze, a quiet port town, became their base. Here, they found a hidden gem: two secluded beaches in the town's heart, perfect for an early morning swim. La Plagette, nestled beneath a medieval chapel, and La Pinède, a pine-clad beach within a wetlands reserve, offer tranquility and natural beauty.
The surrounding countryside is a wine lover's paradise, with vineyards stretching as far as the eye can see. The famous Picpoul de Pinet, a crisp white wine, is a local specialty. At Domaine Gaujal, a historic winery, the fifth-generation owners warmly welcome visitors for tastings and cellar tours.
Marseillan, an ancient Roman port, is a testament to the lagoon's timeless charm. Cobbled alleys, grand mansions, and fishermen's cottages coexist, untouched by modern influences. Noilly Prat, the renowned vermouth producer, adds a touch of sophistication with its elegant tasting room and courtyard filled with aging barrels.
Bouzigues, a fishing village, is known for its oysters. The oyster fields, a maze of 'tables' in the water, are a unique sight. Le Cercle des Huîtres, a local eatery, serves the freshest oysters prepared in various mouth-watering ways. But there's a catch. The owners reveal a concerning fact: global warming has made the lagoon too hot for mussels, once a local specialty, to survive.
Valmagne Abbey, an 11th-century monastery turned wine cellar, offers a unique blend of history and viticulture. Its farm-to-table organic restaurant and immense wine barrels stored in the church itself are a must-visit.
The Lido's sand dunes, almost deserted out of season, provide a peaceful escape. Yet, even in peak season, this corner of the south of France retains its tranquility. You can always find a quiet spot along the beach, away from the bustling holiday crowds.
But here's where it gets controversial: is this natural paradise truly a hidden gem, or is it a well-kept secret among locals and those in the know? And what does the future hold for this fragile ecosystem as global warming takes its toll?
The Archipel de Thau tourism office invites you to explore this captivating destination and uncover your own unique experiences. With affordable accommodations like the Hôtel du Port, starting at €65 for a double room, it's an adventure waiting to be discovered.
